A brief history of the fish and chip shop!
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For many years, the fish and chip shop, notwithstanding the Antipodes, was an establishment peculiar to the British Isles. Often promoted as the national dish, I think it’s fair to say that fish and chips is the most iconic dish of all the UK’s traditional fayre. But, just how did the country’s beloved fish and chip shop come about?
I guess the story must start with Sir Walter Raleigh, who in the 16th century famously brought back the potato to Britain from his adventures in the Americas. However, it wasn’t until sometime during the 17th century that the French or Belgians decided to fry potatoes to create ‘chips’. History recalls that Britain had to wait until the 1830s for its fried fish. The notion was introduced to the country by Jewish immigrants from Portugal and Spain.
The birth of the Fish and Chip Shop
Around 1863, it was northern entrepreneur, John Lees, who reputedly first had the idea to combine fried fish and chips. He operated his takeaway business from a wooden hut in Mossley market, near Manchester. He reportedly put a sign in the window, which read ”This is the first fish and chip shop in the world”. However, there are some who would dispute that claim. The counterclaim is that the first fish and chip shop was actually opened in London’s East End, some 3 years earlier. The country’s very first fast-food outlet was supposedly opened by Jewish immigrant Joseph Malin.
From humble beginnings, fish and chips quickly caught on and soon became a firm favourite of the working classes. At a time when the diet of the ordinary worker and his family was fairly bland and unvaried, fish and chips became a special treat. To keep costs to a minimum, portions of fish and chips were wrapped in old newspapers for takeaway. The quaint practice survived up until the 1980s. It only ceased when the medical profession advised that newspaper ink coming into contact with hot food could present a health risk.
Expansion of the Business
Initially, fish and chip shops were more often than not, small family businesses. Commonplace by the late 19th century, they were usually run from the ‘front room’ of an ordinary house. Quite often, it was Italian migrants who seized the opportunity to establish the small takeaway business within the local community. Many already had the experience of running such establishments in their homeland. Thus, the fish and chip trade continued to expand across the country well into the 20th century. This was in many ways thanks to the demand created from an ever-growing urban industrial population.
Additionally, the development of the fishing trawler meant that fish could be caught from further afield. This ensured a ready and affordable supply of white fish. The simultaneous expansion of the railways allowed for easy and fast distribution of fish from ports to the rest of the country. In 1910, there were more than 25,000 fish and chip shops within the UK. By 1927, this number peaked at more than 35,000 fish and chip establishments
During the First and Second World Wars, fish and chips were among the few foods not to be rationed. People would often queue for hours when the word went about that the chip shop had managed to get a supply of fish. Even Winston Churchill himself praised the virtues of a plate of fish and chips, referring to them as “good companions”.
Fish and Chips in the 21st Century
Since the end of the Second World War, the food landscape in the UK has changed in many ways. In particular, the growth and choice within the food takeaway industry have skyrocketed. However, despite this, almost unbelievably, today’s demand for fish and chips has remained at a similar volume to those of the post-war years. This sees around 10,500 establishments serving up more than a million portions of the hearty dish on a daily basis.
It’s estimated that 80% of the country’s adult population visits a fish and chip shop at least once a year. Around 22% pay a weekly call. The UK’s annual spend on takeaway fish and chips is more than £1.2 billion. On a singular dish versus dish basis, fish and chips remain the nation’s favourite fast food. Since 2015, the UK has celebrated National Fish and Chip Day, which is held on the first Friday in June.
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